Expression comes in all forms, and curly + coily hair is the perfect canvas to play with. With so many possibilities, where do you even begin? I got your back. Here’s my starter guide to defining your curls and coils—and making them last. 

the prep step

The key to a long-lasting look is starting with a clean, detangled hair base. Check out my full wash routine for cleaning your curls + coils. 

Before you get styling, separate and clip your damp hair into 4 sections to prevent the ends from drying. You can work in horizontal sections for more volume, allowing the curls + coils to stack on top of each other. Or go for diagonal sections for slightly less volume—you do you. 

Now pull out your curl product of choice! I like using a curling gel, foam, custard, or cream with a medium hold to lock the style in place. Speaking of styles, this will give you an idea of what styles you could rock.

Nice. Now that you have a look in mind, here’s how to bring it to life like a PRO. 

shingling

This method works by separating strands that would typically curl onto each other for organic definition and moderate volume. You can create this look on any hair type and length—even the TWA lengths.

1. Depending on your curl or coil size, take a ¼” - ½” section. The smaller the individual curl/coil, the smaller the section size. 

2. Using your index finger and thumb, smooth your curl product onto each section from the base to the ends until it feels smooth. 

3. Repeat this process until all sections are complete.

4. Air dry or use a diffuser to set your style. 

5. For more volume, separate your dry curls or coils.

raking

If you’re on a time crunch, this might be the style for you. This method is similar to shingling, but not as precise so you can express yourself in less time. Named for the way your fingers rake through your hair, you can create voluminous, elongated curls + coils on all curl types. 

1. Take ½“-1” sections, and work curl product through your hair from the roots to the ends.

2. Rake curl product through each section. Use 2 fingers for more clumpy, defined curls, and 3 fingers for less defined, more voluminous curls. 

3. Lift your hair at the roots, and gently shake to let your curls + coils fall into their natural shape. 

4. Air dry or use a diffuser to set your style. 

5. For more volume, gently lift your hair at the roots. 

finger-coil

This method will create soft, uniform, elongated spiral curls, just by using your fingers! It delivers minimal-moderate volume depending on how you separate your strands, and works best on medium to long hair lengths.

1. Apply curl product to your whole head of hair.

2. Depending on your curl or coil size, take a ¼” - ½” section and twirl it around your finger starting at the base until the end of the strand. 

3. Repeat this process until all of your hair is coiled. 

4. Air dry or use a diffuser to set your style. 

5. For more volume, separate your dry curls or coils.

comb-coil

Similar to finger coils, this curl-defining method creates tighter spiral curls with (you guessed it) a comb. That means this style works great on short-medium hair lengths and tighter curls + coils. It may take more time to create these consistent curl spirals, but the results are so worth it.